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HD D&D 2 into 1 Exhaust Installation

5/3/2010 1:37:55 PM

This week's article is written by Jarrod Pilone, one of my best friends and riding mentors.  He performs regularly with the world-class Ft. Lauderdale Harley Davidson Drill Team, and is the guy responsible for getting me back into riding.  Jarrod is excellent with the wrench, and has taught me so much over the years - thanks buddy!

Mark

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By Jarrod Pilone

Our test mule is my 2007 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic Electra Glide, a “Geezer Glide” if you will. Even though I am 33 years old, I love this bike. It has all the creature comforts I never knew I always wanted on a motorcycle, stereo, fairing/wind protection, lots of storage, even cruise control! Since 3 months after I bought the bike new in September of 2006, I have had a Rinehart True Dual exhaust on the bike, which I loved, and it sounded great, but all my friends who ride with me in groups complain my bike is too loud, and I think I’ve reached the point there I think it’s too loud (am I getting old??).

 

 

Also, I am on the Fort Lauderdale Harley Davidson Drill Team, and we go through tires on our bikes quickly, so I am finding myself having a spare set of wheels and tires ready to go at all times. But the problem is, on my bike you have to remove the left muffler to get the axle out,and it’s becoming a real pain to do this 2-3 times a year. So I began searching for an alternative to make life easier: Get a 2-into-1 exhaust system.

 

I did my homework, and found about every exhaust maker out there also has a 2-into-1 system for my application, but most are loud systems made for racing, this is not what I am after. I narrowed it down to the BUB Racing system, and the “Fat Cat” made by D & D Exhaust. After finding videos online of people who installed these systems on their bikes, I wanted to hear for myself to see how loud they were. I decided on a D & D “Fat Cat”system for performance, sound, and let’s not forget looks! I searched for a month for a good deal on a system, and came across a used system from a gentleman I met on the v-twin forum website. He had the exhaust for my bike, he had it on his street glide and it wasn’t what he was looking for after putting less than 3,000 miles on the system. So I was able to save myself some money!

 

The best thing you can do when getting into an install like this is lay out the new product and get yourself organized.

 

Look how pretty the new system is, compared to my old tired system, complete with its cracked and re-welded rear pipe (That the shield no longer fit well, so I secured it with coat hanger wire!).

 

And check out the other non-benefit of this system, the immense heat given off from the left pipe that also liked to cook my leg when stopped!

 

 

I am a bit of a nerd when it comes to my tools, I like everything neat and organized, and it makes it easier to find that one tool you need, when you need it.



 

Now let’s get dirty and get the old Rinehart True Duals off the bike, shall we? To start, we need to remove the saddlebags from the bike and then we can have better access to remove the mufflers. We need to remove them first, as they are the big weights on any bike exhaust system, sometimes they can be a bear to wrestle off the pipes. On a Harley touring bike, you need to start by loosening the clamps at the front of the muffler, and then loosen and remove the two nuts at the top of the muffler that hold it to the saddlebag supports.

 

You will need to save at least one of the bars that slide into the saddlebag support, as it will be re-used for the new exhaust. Don’t throw the other one out; you’ll never know if you’ll need it in the future if you choose to change back to a dual muffler system. You may find it easier to jack the bike upright using a motorcycle jack, as this will make physical access to the left muffler a little easier.

 

What the photo doesn’t show you, is the shaking, pulling,cursing, and sweating I went through to get the left muffler off. I just keep reminding myself that I won’t ever have to do that again with the 2 into 1system. Now let’s keep going and get that rear cylinder pipe off. I took wire cutters and remove my "MacGyvered"  heat shield since it’s blocking the nuts holding the pipe to the engine. Once that was off, I removed the bolt holding the pipe’s support bracket to the transmission case, unplugged the Oxygen Sensor from the harness, and removed the nuts holding the pipe to the engine. Aside note, sometimes you may need to give these nuts a shot of penetrating oil,as they are prone to rusting. After finding the right socket, extension, and universal combination, I got the pipe off. (Note my hack welding job, but it held up for the most part)

 

Now we will remove the oxygen sensor from the pipe, as it will be re-used. If you don’t have an oxygen sensor socket like myself you can improvise with the proper fitting wrench and something to give you a little extra power. Be sure to mark which cylinder the sensor came from, and do not damage the sensor surface.

 

Here you can see I have the sensor taped to a shop rag and marked the tape with a permanent marker.

 



Now let’s move our attention to the front cylinder and pipe.Let’s get that muffler off!

The right side pipe also has a support bracket on the transmission, we will remove this nut.

 

 

Now we need to move to the nuts holding the pipe to the head. Except I ran into a big problem: One of the studs backed out of the engine! Thankfully it didn’t break off into the engine, it looks like it was caused by the nut being cross threaded or over tightened by whoever installed my Rineharts at the dealership in 2006, thanks man! Here you can see the flat spot with the damaged threads.

 

So it looks like my exhaust activities were done for the evening, this stud needs to be replaced. I had to visit 3 different auto parts stores to find the right one (just a good ole fashion 5/16 thread exhaust stud,a common application for older American vehicles actually). I picked up some new grade 8 nuts while out and about too. To install the stud, I put two nuts on the fine thread end of the stud (that remains exposed when installed) and tightened one against the other to jam them on.

 

 

So I threaded the stud into the engine by hand, and then put a socket and ratchet on it until it was properly seated into the engine. If you don’t know what this should feel like when turning, get a friend with experience or seek professional assistance at this point. I have put studs in before, and I know what it feels like to be in all the way, so I went ahead and got it done.

 

We already have our exhaust laid out, so let’s put the old oxygen sensors in the new pipes, but be sure to use a little anti-seize on the threads. I like the Permatex brand stuff in the jar, it has a brush built into the lid, and the container will be used for years in most do-it-yourself garages.

 

 

Be sure to not get any anti-seize on the sensor surface, it will damage it and trip a check engine light!

 



Just put the sensors in (in their respective locations for front or rear) the reverse of the installation. Put a little bit of universal grease on the sealing surface of the pipe. This will ensure a good seal at the engine cylinder. Now let’s snake that pipe into position. This will take a little of patience, as a 2 into 1 system doesn’t flex much, so you will need to wrestle it a bit. It went in with just a little bit of wiggling thankfully. I got one nut started on the front pipe for support, and wedged the pipes into the heads.

 

 

There she is, hanging free, and now we can begin to see the difference this system will make, just a little more work to do!

 

Exhaust systems will/should come with a support bracket that bolts to the transmission, as most are different. Fortunately, the bracket from my Rinehart system worked just fine with a washer between the bracket and the new exhaust!



Do not tighten the bracket bolt all the way, it’s time to install the rest of the flange nuts! Get all of them on snug, and then tighten the support bolt down. Once that’s done you can tighten the exhaust flange nuts!Let’s move our attention to the muffler. Slide it onto the collector pipe and use that bar on the saddlebag support and the supplied bolts and spacers.

 

 

Next, tighten down the muffler clamp. I used a gentle touch with a too-large ratchet. I should have used a nut driver or ¼” drive ratchet, but I already had what I needed next to me, so if you do what I did,do not over tighten it as the larger ratchet can easily snap the bolt on the clamp.

 

We are done! Wow, was it that easy? If I didn’t run into the hurdle with the exhaust stud, I could have had this done in one evening. I gave the exhaust a quick polish to remove my paw prints and stood back to take in what I just accomplished.

 



Boy does it look good, now I need to clean the rest of the bike! Maybe later.

It’s time to ride! I started it up (See video) to check for any leaks, and it sounded great. I took it for a quick ride and man what a difference! It has a nice rumble, and it’s very tame if you are easy on the throttle, it’s so much quieter from the true duals. It doesn’t sound racy or tuned; it still has that Harley sound that I love.

 Click HERE to see my uTube video of the finished product!

It wasn’t that hard, and it was all done with hand tools, no special tools were required.

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Comments:

Created By: Admin S  On 5/4/2010 10:32:08 PM
   OK, so when are you going to come over and let me take it for a ride so I can hear/feel the difference?
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